In the previous article, we considered all the dangers of rut driving, depending on the weather and the quality of the road surface. A logical question immediately arises: what to do when you find yourself in a rut?
Basic rut driving methods:
- Balance adjustment with legs
- The motorcycle turns with the body, not the handlebars
- Stabilization through optimal speed
- Bodywork to relieve the suspension when out of track
- Crossing the track at right angles
- Engine braking
Balance adjustment with legs
When you get into a rut, you need to focus on keeping the motorcycle EXACTLY IN THE MIDDLE of the track, so that the wheel does not jump off the edge and tear off the tire. The most convenient method will be the one that cross and endurists love so much. Well, someone who, and these guys know a lot about ruts. Standing on the pegs affects the bike’s center of gravity, especially once you’ve gotten used to using this wonderful method. But if standing up isn’t your thing, then hold the bike with your feet tighter.
Off-road, motorcyclists have to cling very tightly to the motorcycle so as not to touch the edges of the track with their feet or cling to protruding branches / roots.
It is also helpful to shift your weight backwards if you are sitting down. This is done to relieve the front fork. Plus, when the front suspension is free, your mistakes won’t cost you too much. If you run over an obstacle with the wheel, and your weight is not focused on it, then the wheel will react much more loyally and you can regain control over it.
In general, the balance of a motorcycle in a rut is similar to that of riding on sand or mud. This is due to the fact that the motorcycle leaves behind a track on the road. Rutting behavior is as limited as driving in sand / mud.
Stabilization through optimal speed
In addition to stabilizing your weight, you also have one more tool – speed. In a rut, speed is needed, just like on passing sandy sections, in exactly the amount to keep you upright and give you the opportunity to react clearly. Ride with extreme caution.
Turns with the body, not the steering
In the case of sand, you were stopped by the wheel falling asleep and turning the steering wheel. In a rut situation, you are physically constrained by the edges of the rut itself. When you turn the steering wheel, the wheel runs over the edge and … a breakdown occurs, if not a breakdown, then a wobbling.
Wobling in a rut almost always ends in a fatal and very offensive fall, because the front wheel begins to beat from edge to edge of the rut. No matter how you try to stop it, the very physics of movement and the ricochet of the wheel from the edge does not allow the wobling to calm down quickly.
There is only one way out – to turn by tilting the motorcycle.
Bodywork to relieve the suspension when out of track
It’s easy to get into a rut, but it’s not easy to get out of it, not only on the road, but also in life. Many motorcyclists drop their motorcycles or get injured when trying to get out of a rut. Initially, you must unload the front fork, and then add as much throttle as you need to get the motorcycle to throw the front wheel, then get out to the surface. At the moment of transition, your body does half of the work. Because as soon as the bike is pushed forward, and the front wheel is already scraping along the way, you need to transfer your body weight to the front fork in order to relieve the rear suspension, which should catch on the tread and push the motorcycle out.
If you are not sure that you can get out of a rut without assistance or on a motorcycle on horseback, do not take unnecessary risks. Simply push the bike out with your hands and dismount. There is nothing wrong with that. It is much more offensive to get ridiculous injuries.
The difficulty lies in the moment of changing the position of the body, not everyone has time to change seats or stand up competently. Because of what there is a fall on the side.
The second common mistake in trying to get out of a rut is over-gasing. The pilot is trying so hard to jump out of the rut that instead of a push, he starts like a cannonball into the orbit of Mars! You need to understand how much you add gas. There is no point in tearing the trigger to the maximum, simply because where is the guarantee that you will resist after the rear wheel jumps out of the rut? Where is the confidence that you will not crank the throttle out of fear even more at the moment of the jerk? And with excessive gas, you really run the risk of getting out of your rut on the side of the road!
With a little throttle, when the bike doesn’t have enough fuse to catch and pull itself out, you will be led sideways! Because the front wheel is likely, but the rear wheel skids and scratches the track wall. A common off-road problem.
Lighten the bike as much as possible before getting out of a rut, the extra weight will play against you.
Crossing the track at right angles
The right angle when crossing the track and rail is the basic rule. When you tilt the wheel or take a gentle turn, you walk along the edge, in the truest sense of the word! They do not like the rut, for a sudden breakdown of the wheel. When nothing foreshadowed trouble, and in seconds you are chatting in a narrow tube of a track. To cross the track, be sure to look for right-angle travel.
Since loading the front suspension in rut and sand is a very bad plan, all you have to do is engine braking. The rear brake can be used, but again, can you apply it effectively without locking or skidding? You understand that if the rear wheel skidding from braking, it is similar to the front wheel, it will hit the edges of the track and hello wobling!
Engine braking is a smooth and accurate method of braking, yes, it is not the fastest, but less dangerous. If you have to brake in an off-road rut, you run the risk of getting stuck. Getting off the track of sand or mud will be problematic, but you can kick off the edge of the track with your feet.