Earlier, a separate series of articles was devoted to motor rubber, which considered this issue from different angles. However, there was no separate article about winter motor tires and its studding going hand in hand. It’s time to make up for such an omission! Initially, I advise you to pay attention to the previous topics:
Winter motor tires
Winter tires are more prepared for colder temperatures than summer tires. Summer rubber in the cold quickly dubs and loses its elasticity, so manufacturers have taken care of this problem. Winter rubber is not used in summer because it becomes too soft and wears out incredibly quickly. In addition to the stiffness indicators, you should not pay attention to the carcass, it will also be more solid than that of summer tires.
Winter tires are not studded when driving around the city. Roads in cities are either cleaned or sprinkled with sand / salt. On thorns, driving on a relatively cleared road with asphalt is unlikely to resemble enthusiastic fun. The spikes will begin to slip as they have nothing to stick into. A similar situation with driving on frozen ground – the thorns do not stick, the risk of breaking or losing them increases, and the speed of grinding is terrifying. As a separate bonus, you risk sending the driver following you, if not a stone from the road, then the spike itself, if it breaks as a result.
What and why are rubber studded?
In winter, a motorcycle is more of a way to have fun and enjoyment than a trivial means of transportation. Someone drives off-road on their own, and someone transports a motorcycle to the scene by car. If you are a fan of spike riding and do not transport a motorcycle from the parking lot to the track, but eat as if nothing had happened yourself, do not forget that the asphalt is a friend to your spikes like that goose, the proverbial pig is a dubious comrade.
Rubber studs are needed when driving on icy surfaces, a simple tread does not withstand such an exam, and studs give at least some advantage. Studding is used in winter motor sports.
What rubber is studded with:
- Studs from manufacturers, ready-made tires
- Kold kutter
- Self-tapping screws
- Wood screws
Factory studded tires and studs from manufacturers
Factory studded tires are worth their money for a reason – the studs are inside the tread, which prevents the studs from harming the camera. In general, the project of such rubber was prepared taking into account the combination of specific rubber with specific spikes. In addition, only professional motorcycle tires are allowed to compete – homemade studding does not come to participation in races.
Factory spikes can actually be bought separately, but cunning manufacturers usually ask to install them on fresh rubber with a high tread, so that the spikes, as in production, do not pierce the camera and stay in the rubber body.
Kold Kutter – spikes of an industrial nature, which have proven themselves quite well. They are screwed into the rubber block, do not injure the camera, and feel dignified on the ice. But they grind down too fast when driving aggressively.
Autoships – the taste and color of the markers are of course different, but motorcyclists have a persistent skeptical aftertaste to autoships. The bulk of reviews about autoships are negative. Auto spikes show themselves on car tires because of their area, tires are wider at times, which means the grip area is larger. On motorized tires, auto spikes behave sluggishly, but they grind off quickly anyway.
Self-tapping screws, screws and dowel-nails
If you are not planning to participate in speedway races, go to the cross / enduro track for competitions in winter, or even do not register for pit bike races, then there are a few more home-grown ways to stud rubber. Sometimes factory studded tires are too expensive or the motorcycle is used in such conditions that it is not a shame to ride homemade tires. The choice is not for the faint of heart and not for the lazy. It is not clear only whether to grab the mittens first of all (during the installation process, hands are often injured), or the heart, or the screwdriver …
Screws and screws – not everyone can see the difference between them, but the characteristics of screws are usually weaker than self-tapping screws. In addition, screws ask for a prepared hole, and self-tapping screws can be screwed into any surface without preparation. If you take self-tapping screws for metal, then they will live to the bitter end and from the last effort. A separate bonus is the method of making self-tapping screws: more reliable than screws, plus anti-corrosion treatment. Screws and self-tapping screws are screwed both from the outside and from the inside. Ideally, additionally insulate the area in contact with the tire tube to protect it from rubbing with the metal head or the suddenly protruding rubber end when you secured the screws / self-tapping screws from the outside. Additionally, they are fixed with washers and nuts. For safety net, use glue, thread lock, welding – as it is more convenient for anyone.
Sharp ends of screws and self-tapping screws are recommended to be sharpened. In general, height adjustment is still required, since the protruding ends can touch the motorcycle fender or fork stays, the edges of the swingarm.
It is recommended to use shorter studs on the front wheel than on the rear. On the rear wheel, as on the transmission of engine power, the studs grind harder.
Dowel nail – most of all loved by motorcyclists whose hands itch up to homemade winter motorcycle tires.
It takes a lot of effort – while you remove the washer from the dowel (and for this you still need to come up with a method from improvised means), while you install it, while you pump up your biceps, inserting the washers and nuts back, while you work with welding (cry over the places where you burned the rubber) … for some, even the winter will end. But when experience reduces the working time to a couple of days, the dowel-nails show that the work was worth it.
Although, by and large, in order to buy professional motor tires on spikes for winter races, it is enough to look for offers in the summer and not do the work that the manufacturer will do for you at a more thoughtful level.
How often should the cleats be installed?
Depends on driving conditions. If you make too many studs, the ride will not always be comfortable, and if there are not enough studs, then excessive pressure will be exerted on them. Consequently, they will quickly wear off or break. As a rule, take the calculation of 1-2 thorns per checker. The central spikes are sometimes made shorter so that under pressure they are compared with the lateral ones, but these are also special cases.
Lateral rubber studs are required when you expect to lay large angles. Let’s say you plan to ride only on the ice of a river or lake, twist heels and take sharp turns. If the tire protector does not have a pronounced pattern, then installing additional studs makes sense.